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John Barlow, self-confessed glutton, found himself in a tricky situation: living in one of the most meat-loving places on earth, married to a vegetarian. The Barlows live in Galicia, the misty-green northwest corner of Spain, and home to a population that reveres and consumes every part of the pig. This gets Barlow thinking about the nature of our relationship with food—what’s delicious, what’s nasty, and what sort of obligation we have to the animals we eat. Over the course of one glorious, bilious year, Barlow vows to eat everything but the squeal. In his travels, Barlow takes part in the thousand-year-old antthrowing festival of Laza. He makes pig-bladder puddings for carnival. He washes down lots of pork with lots of wine.
In the tradition of Calvin Trillin and Anthony Bourdain, Everything but the Squeal is an adventure in extreme eating, a hilariously quirky travel book, and a perceptive look at how what we eat makes us who we are.- Sales Rank: #1947668 in Books
- Published on: 2008-10-28
- Released on: 2008-10-28
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 8.50" h x 1.02" w x 5.82" l, .95 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 320 pages
From Publishers Weekly
Starred Review. Self-confessed glutton, travel writer and novelist Barlow (Eating Mammals; Intoxicated) doesn't scrimp on either culinary or cultural delights in this charmingly informative and witty narrative. Barlow, a resident of the relatively unknown corner of Spain, sets himself the task of consuming every part of the staple meat of rural Galicia. Traveling with his Spanish wife, a vegetarian, and his infant son, Barlow serves up vivid tales encountered during the year dedicated to his porco-graphical tour. But this tale is more than a culinary treat. Barlow is a companionable guide expounding upon history, traditions and the personalities of Galicia. His writing style is quick, lively and filled with delicious details. He takes readers on a sublime journey of the senses, including three Carnivals, one in Laza, a thousand-year-old event, combining ant throwing and a pig head bacchanal. He explores why the cousin of Fidel Castro lives at the end of a dark muddy lane in a pokey hamlet, and tracks down Antón, the most famous pig in Galicia. And he indulges in a 12-course meal, including ribs, at one of Spain's most lauded restaurants. As the ribs sit in the gentle heat, that glorious, fat-infiltrated meat is slowly transforming into what was for me one of the most spellbinding dishes I have ever eaten. (Nov.)
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From Booklist
Galicia cradles the village of Cervantes, ancestral origin of the family that produced Spain’s greatest novelist, but the creature arguably dearest to natives of Galicia is the pig. This ancient land, now Spain’s northwest quadrant, reveres the pig and makes diligent use of every part of the animal. The hind legs become exceptional cured hams, and lesser parts yield chorizo, liberally seasoned with pungent pimentón. Many of the pig’s best cuts end up in cocida, the local boiled dinner that features fresh pork and smoked sausages in a broth thick with vegetables. Fish figures in Galician cuisine as well, especially their beloved octopus. Married to a Galician, Barlow knows Galicians intimately and finds them warm but contrarian, hesitating ever to answer questions in the affirmative, a custom that drags out every conversation and encounter. Barlow introduces readers to some remarkable contemporary Galicians, including Fidel Castro’s cousin. --Mark Knoblauch
Review
“The attraction of Barlow’s book is that he goes well beyond the business of eating. He gives us a fascinating journal of his Galician wanderings . . . What comes through is a deep affection not just for Galicia’s pigs . . . but also for Galicia’s people and culture.” —The Economist
“With good humor and shameless enthusiasm, [Barlow] has written a delicious meat mash note.” —Gilbert Cruz, Time
“[Barlow] has revealed himself to be an amiable, curious, and uncomplaining guide.” —Barbara Fisher, The Boston Globe
“A person clever enough to make his way in this world by traveling, pigging out and then writing of such difficult duty might arouse a bit of envy among armchair travelers, but Barlow is so unabashedly in love with almost all things porcine (though maybe not trotters, feet or botelo, ‘smashed-up vertebrae and other stuff’ boiled in a bag of intestines) that rambling the countryside with him is a mouthwatering adventure . . . Whether cruising tapas bars, enjoying small-town festivals, sampling rural roadhouse specialties or farmers’ home-grown provisions, Barlow manages to eat pretty much the whole hog—even brains and heart, if not genitals—with an admirably old-fashioned passion for one of life’s prime joys.” —Irene Wanner, Los Angeles Times
“Perhaps even more satisfying than his madcap extreme eating and cooking experiences are Barlow's quotable observations about Galicians.” —Ben Schmerler, New York Post
“Self-confessed glutton, travel writer and novelist Barlow (Eating Mammals; Intoxicated) doesn’t scrimp on either culinary or cultural delights in this charmingly informative and witty narrative . . . Barlow serves up vivid tales encountered during the year dedicated to his “porco-graphical tour.” But this tale is more than a culinary treat. Barlow is a companionable guide expounding upon history, traditions and the personalities of Galicia. His writing style is quick, lively and filled with delicious details. He takes readers on a sublime journey of the senses.” —Publishers Weekly (starred review)
“A savory travelogue with insights that go beyond taste and texture . . . Barlow is a writer first and foremost, not just another foodie looking for a publisher to pick up his tapas tab . . . [He] embraces his adopted culture with affectionate and knowing ribbing.” —Kirkus Reviews
“John Barlow has written a most compelling and delicious book . . . [Everything but the Squeal] is not only an amusing and thoughtful journal of one man’s search for meaning in pork, but also a warm look at the foods, customs, personalities and history of the Galician people . . . This is a fine and noteworthy addition to any serious Spanish food library, and a must-read for anyone contemplating a trip into this green corner of Spain.” —James Mellgren, The Gourmet Retailer
“Splendid porky tales.” —Fergus Henderson, director/chef of St. John Bar and Restaurant and author of The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating
“Books like John Barlow’s delightful Everything but the Squeal are often more important to a chef than actual cookbooks. It is impossible to cook even the most personal food without understanding the origins of a region’s traditions. Barlow writes with considerable wit, and he perfectly captures how connected Galicians are to their landscape and culture. His tales remind me of so many of the wonderful surprises I have encountered while pursuing great food throughout Spain. You start out looking for one particular experience, and end up with life-changing adventures. And you have to love a guy who just wants to raise a son willing to share a ham sandwich.” —Alex Raij, former chef of Tía Pol and El Quinto Pino
“Galicia cradles the village of Cervantes, ancestral origin of the family that produced Spain’s greatest novelist, but the creature arguably dearest to natives of Galicia is the pig. This ancient land, now Spain’s northwest quadrant, reveres the pig and makes diligent use of every part of the animal . . . Barlow introduces readers to some remarkable contemporary Galicians, including Fidel Castro’s cousin.” —Mark Knoblauch, Booklist
Praise for Eating Mammals:
“Big-hearted and richly imagined.” —Henry Alford, The New York Times Book Review
“If Edward Gorey and Flannery O’Connor were to collaborate on a book of fiction, it might wind up a lot like Eating Mammals.” —Newsday
Most helpful customer reviews
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
A gastro-porcine adventure
By Miran Ali
A cultural and culinary travelogue of Galicia told by a very humorous writer. Starts off very well, but about two thirds through, the poor fellow seems to lose his steam for more pork and digresses a bit. Apart from that I found it a thoroughly enjoyable and fun read. The exploration of the cultural significance of pork in Galician culture is fascinating. Unfortunately the book's marred by the absence of a map, showing the authors journey. I suppose, like a lot of other people, I know where La Coruna is, but my Galician geography ends there and a map would have been very helpful.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
SQUEALERSHIP ON GALICIA
By Paco Calderón
I read the review in The Economist; being a glutton, I ordered the book right away.
Its anecdote is quite simple: This British lad tastes some pork delicacy on a visit to her girlfriend's town in Galicia. Becomes so entranced with the flavor, he decides to eat every single part of the pig, and write about it and the Galician locality where he ate it. Soon he finds one town that celebrates a barbaric lupercalian carnival, complete with mudfights spiced with live angry ants, where mobs fight to bite the boiled head of a pig. Another features Toñito, a pampered pig hailed as the town guest for the entire year. Toñito can enter your home, sleep in your bed or defecate in the Mayor's Office. But come the day of San Antonio (hence the nickname), Toñito is butchered in the town square to the delight of all. There's a description on how an entire family takes part in a hog slaughter, a visit to Fidel Castro's aunt, a gang of whipping clowns known as Peliqueiros, and an interview with Galicia's top politician, Manuel Fraga Iribarne, the key player who eased the transition between Franco's dictatorship and modern Spain's democracy. Not a dull moment.
A fun homage to Galicia and gallegos everywhere, and a nice appetizer before dinning on tapas, iberico ham and Albariño wine. ¡Salud!
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
A great introduction to life in Galicia
By Traveler
Friends and I were anticipating a visit to Galicia, and I came across this book. It is a most enjoyable read and provides a great overview of the culture and landscape of Galicia. All three of us read it before we traveled to Galicia. The book is humorous, informative, and interesting -- John Barlow's tales of a year touring Galicia. At the conclusion of the book, I felt much more informed about the places I was about to visit in ways I would never learn from a travel guidebook. I highly recommend it.
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