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Why Italians Love to Talk About Food, by Elena Kostioukovitch
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Italians love to talk about food. The aroma of a simmering ragú, the bouquet of a local wine, the remembrance of a past meal: Italians discuss these details as naturally as we talk about politics or sports, and often with the same flared tempers. In Why Italians Love to Talk About Food, Elena Kostioukovitch explores the phenomenon that first struck her as a newcomer to Italy: the Italian "culinary code," or way of talking about food. Along the way, she captures the fierce local pride that gives Italian cuisine its remarkable diversity. To come to know Italian food is to discover the differences of taste, language, and attitude that separate a Sicilian from a Piedmontese or a Venetian from a Sardinian. Try tasting Piedmontese bagna cauda, then a Lombard cassoela, then lamb ala Romana: each is part of a unique culinary tradition.
In this learned, charming, and entertaining narrative, Kostioukovitch takes us on a journey through one of the world's richest and most adored food cultures. Organized according to region and colorfully designed with illustrations, maps, menus, and glossaries, Why Italians Love to Talk About Food will allow any reader to become as versed in the ways of Italian cooking as the most seasoned of chefs. Food lovers, history buffs, and gourmands alike will savor this exceptional celebration of Italy's culinary gifts.
- Sales Rank: #423423 in Books
- Published on: 2009-10-13
- Released on: 2009-10-13
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.48" h x 1.51" w x 7.72" l, 3.14 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 480 pages
From Publishers Weekly
Kostioukovitch, Umberto Eco's Russian translator, seems an unlikely source for a volume that feels like an instant Italian food and food history classic, but she's lived in Italy for 20 years and brings a nonnative's eye and taste to a fairly comprehensive gastronomical project. Structured as an imaginary journey from region to region, north to south, the book opens with a chapter on Friuli Venezia Giulia and proceeds down the peninsula from one region to the next. Each chapter takes a more or less similar approach, leisurely discussing the respective region in a variety of terms from history to geography and culture; sooner, as with the chapter on Puglia, or later, as with Lazio/Rome, food becomes the paramount topic. Though the book is absolutely not about wine, the author deftly touches on matters like the history of Campari and Frascati. Though there are no recipes, there are helpful sidebars that list dishes, products and beverages typical of each region, and in between are chapters on subjects pertinent to Italy's food and identity. Some, such as olive oil and pasta, are to be expected, while others are organized around topics like pilgrims, joy or larger themes like the impact of the Americas or totalitarianism; all are full of the sort of well-researched literary arcana and cross-cultural connections that enrich the entire book. (Oct.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
About the Author
Elena Kostioukovitch was born in Kiev in 1958, studied in Russia, and moved to Italy in 1988. She is an essayist, translator, and literary agent. Her 1988 translation of Umberto Eco's The Name of the Rose was a literary sensation in Russia and led to a longtime collaboration with Eco. Since 1988, she has been the editor of the Russian series for Bompiani/RCS Publishers, and, since 1996, of a series from Edizioni Frassinelli. She isthe recipient of numerous prizes, including the Welcome Prize (2006), given by the Russian National Association of Restaurateurs. In 2006 Kostioukovitch published Perche agli Italiani piaci parlare del cibo (Why Italians Love to Talk About Food). A bestseller in Italy and Russia, the book received the Bancarella della Cucina award and the Chiavari Literary Award in 2007. Kostioukovitch lives with her husband and two children in Milan.
Most helpful customer reviews
27 of 30 people found the following review helpful.
An off-beat take on the Italian cookbook and Italian culture
By Michael A. Duvernois
Kostioukovitch is Umberto Eco's Russian language translator, and has lived in Italy for the past twenty years. This book is about half pensive reflection on topics of (presumably common Italian) conversation such as totalitarianism, "Joy," pilgrims, and America, and half discussions of the foods and wines of Italy as she takes an imaginary trip around the country. A lot of food is described, quite lovingly, but there aren't really any recipes. It's an odd book, a Russian writing about Italian food and food traditions for Italian readers and then the book is translated into English and brought to the States.
I'm predicting wildly mixed reviews. It's a cookbook in the sense that MFK Fisher's books are cookbooks. It's a travelogue in the sense that Paul Theroux's books are. It's a fun, literate look at Italian food and conversations. But no recipes, and with her Russian background there's a suspicion of inauthenticity around the whole project.
In 2006 Kostioukovitch published this work in Italian as "Perche agli Italiani piaci parlare del cibo." Since then it's been a bestseller in both Russia and Italy and the winner of both culinary and literary prizes in Italy.
7 of 7 people found the following review helpful.
Published in English for the first time
By Midwest Book Review
WHY ITALIANS LOVE TO TALK ABOUT FOOD is published in English for the first time and provides a fine food and culinary survey of Italy's major regions. From how popular dishes emerged to specialty tastes, eating habits, and even the Church's influence on Roman foods, this is an outstanding survey of Italian regional food developments, and is a top pick for libraries who have Italian recipe collections but want to achieve cultural depth and insight.
8 of 9 people found the following review helpful.
An unusual but worthwhile book
By MT57
The book is a very unusual one. I think the title is misleading. I did not learn "why" Italians love to talk about food. There is little in the book that tells you that. The book is still worthwhile but unusual.
First, note that there are no recipes and few photos. There are no cute or funny anecdotes. It is a pretty serious book.
Overall, it is a work of cultural anthropology, more than anything, although it is not academic or rigorous. Yet it is focused on the history and geography of food, food as a signifier, food as a political issue, and the cultural significance of food. Often the author uses the phrase "the culinary code" and that tells you in brief what the theme of the book is. There are chapter titled "Jews" and "Totalitarianism" that are among the best in the book but the fact that they are tells you what kind of book this is. There were a number of interesting passages about how certain dishes, such as stuffed zucchini flowers or eggplant, came to be "Italian" that are worth the price of purchase. Several I wound up reading out loud to my family and they are pretty memorable. But they are serious not funny as the title might lead you to believe. And there are many chapters that do not rise to that level. Sometimes the anthropological perspective overwhelms, such as in the chapter "Restaurants" when the author finds it worth writing down that the waiter asks the people at the table whether they like still or sparkling water, "thus bringing out affinities or differences among those gathered". That is an extreme example yet indicative of the book's perspective. I would also note that the author has a generally dull style, with too many sentences governed by "is", "are" and the passive voice; also I found the font a little difficult to read.
Overall, I recommend this for those who have a serious interest in Italian culture but not for anyone who has a lighter interest simply in Italian food.
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